Athens Insider Summer 2022

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Travel

Arrested Song: A Novel about Greece by award-winning Canadian author Irena Karafilly

Diana Farr-Louis interviews Irena Karafilly, author of Arrested Song, set in Lesvos, on the life and times of the intrepid Calliope Adham, a  feminist before her time who challenged village traditions and morality. Spanning the arc of Greece's troubled history from the German Occupation during WWII to the military dictatorship, Arrested S...

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Playing the Goat

Danylo Hawaleshka steps back in time with the cacophonous, kid-clad dancers of Skyros. We’re lost. And we know we’re lost because it’s dark out and we’ve just driven onto the military base on the Aegean island of Skyros. We make a quick U-turn, followed by a phone call to our genial host-to-be - a bon vivant by the name of Dim...

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Why do Greeks fly kites on Clean Monday?

Every year on Clean Monday, Greeks young and old can be seen in any available patch of green indulging in the traditional beginning-of-Lent activities of kite-flying and picnicking. Setting a kite in the air – and then releasing it – is said to symbolise the freeing of the body from sin, or the passing of the human soul to Heaven and God. [galle...

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Behind the Scenes at the Rethymnon Carnival

In these colourful extracts from her photo journal, archeologist Holley Martlew goes behind the scenes to capture the pageantry, tireless preparations and deep community bonds at one of Greece’s most epic annual carnival rituals. 'Carnival in Rethymnon', I had been told, is special. It shares a few things, like its huge parade...

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Where to escape in Winter

Greece might rule the roost in June and July… but it’s also got some pretty cool moves up its sleeve in January. Falling temperatures cast new magic over stone-clad alpine villages, medieval castles, romantic seafront cities – and buzzy ski-resorts, writes Amanda Dardanis. Castle Adventure in Monemvasia Perched 300 metres above...

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5 Great Things to Do in Poetic Preveza

Don’t just rush off to the islands. From gripping ancient ruins and splendid beaches to arty cafes and Venetian wiles, you’ll find plenty worth sticking around for in the gracious port town of Preveza, writes Amanda Dardanis. I have a theory about Greek towns where the locals get around on bicycles. It’s not very Greek, you se...

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Festive pit-stops at Plato Bar

When a bar is named after Plato, located on the famed Academias Ave and flanked by a street named Omirou (Homer), after Greece’s greatest bard, it’s only natural that it is the destination of choice for Athenians to congregate here for their festive ruminations. With creative cocktails and celebratory bites to get you into the Christmas s...

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Thessaloniki: A Film Fanatic’s Fantasy

Showcasing Greek cinematic talent and international premieres, the Thessaloniki International Film Festival begins this Thursday, November 3, and will continue until Sunday, November 13. Greece’s largest film institution was founded in 1960, making this the sixty-third annual TIFF. Oscar-buzz features and acclaimed independent films will ...

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Athenography: How does a city that belongs to the past look toward the future?

At first sight, Athens may not fit our idea of modernist sobriety in planning and design. But over the last 200 years a remarkably rich understanding has slowly emerged, reconsidering the historical pressures that gave the city its unique rhythms. Anthropologist Tyler Boersen argues that this overdue fascination has made Athens into a par...

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Elefsina 2023: The most important cultural pilgrimage site in Europe reclaims its place in history

Start planning for Elefsina. With its empty factories and oil refineries, a line of tankers pointing the way around Salamina, its easy to forget that this seaside city was the most hallowed site of Ancient Athens. The city that represents nothing less than the eternal cycle of life and death is now the European Capital of Culture 2023. If...

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