Geco: Mediterranean Soul Meets Modern Swagger

Iberico Gyros with pickled onions
Geco, the Gatsby Hotel’s sprawling restaurant, has flung open its sleek, urban doors to reveal a dining experience that has depth and sincerity.
Don’t be distracted by its exuberant floral décor. The real story here is the magic happening in the kitchen. Executive Chef Panagiotis Flakas, and consultant chef Georgianna Hiliadaki of Funky Gourmet and Iodio fame, have crafted a menu that’s firmly rooted in the Mediterranean but open to global influence. The menu sings of seasonality, local pride, and technical swagger – a love letter to Greece executed with audacity and playfulness.
There’s a democratic charm in the layout: the marble bar, a handsome 35-seater, serves as both a social hub and a visual focal point. Come for a languid, wine-drenched dinner in the main dining area, or perch with effortless chic at the bar and pretend not to people-watch.
We began with a round of excellent cocktails, each one thoughtfully constructed, an eclectic lineup designed to tease. Then came a parade of starters that set the tone beautifully: creamy beet and chickpea hummus; delicate sashimi with bright citrus notes; and a tomato dish prepared three ways that managed to be clever without veering into culinary smugness. A standout was the beetroot carpaccio, served with berries, Greek yogurt, Aegina pistachios, and goat cheese—elegant and full of textural contrast.
- Mini Burgers with Prime Angus Beef
- Seafood popsicle with King Crab and yuzu
- Sashimi with jalapeno, coriander and yuzu
Geco’s take on “street food” is both playful and polished. The gyros, made with Iberico pork and a sharp hit of pickled onion, was bold but balanced. The seafood popsicle—king crab with yuzu—was as fun to eat as it was flavourful, with the yuzu infusing tang and elegance into every biteful. And the mini burgers, made from Prime USA Black Angus brisket, managed to feel indulgent without being overwrought.
- Tagliatelle with Bottarga, lemon & parsley
- Ravioli with eggplant creme, ricotta, fresh tomato & marjoram
- Chicken, lemon, oregano
Italian star chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, with 9 Michelin stars under his belt, adds a welcome dose of Italian flair to the menu with three pastas and a dessert. The tagliatelle with bottarga was sheer poetry with the fish roe unlocking its delicate but assertive mineral flavour, the ricotta and marjoram ravioli was unexpected in all the right ways, and a tomato and red pepper pasta, a masterclass in restrained brilliance.
Among the mains, the chicken with lemon and oregano was a comforting nod to Greek tradition, but elevated. The skirt steak—Prime Black Angus— seared to a deep, moody crust—was pure carnivorous theatre. But the showstopper? The slow-cooked lamb. Twelve hours of patient devotion had rendered it so succulent, so unapologetically flavourful, it arrived meltingly tender and deeply seasoned—an impressive example of technique and patience paying off.
Desserts, thankfully, didn’t drop the ball. A cloud-like tiramisu, a textbook-perfect crème brûlée, and a profiterole that walked the line between rich and refined.
Geco isn’t a flashy tourist trap. It doesn’t need to be. With a strong culinary team (Flakas is supported by the talented Christos Rigas in the kitchen), and a menu that blends familiarity with a fresh perspective, it’s one of the more compelling additions to Athens’ dining scene. An ambitious restaurant that delivers on all fronts.
Geco, Lekka 14. For reservations, call: 21 0321 6001